More pictures can be found here or here.
This backpack is based on the Vicious Gnauga from the online game Kingdom of Loathing. It looks like this:
The pattern is fairly easy and suitable for a beginner, though I definitely wouldn’t recommend it as a first project. Fur yarn is a bit tricky to work with. You’ll need to know how to knit in the round, pick up stitches, and do a 3-needle bind off. You’ll also mostly be knitting with needles that are too small for the yarn, intentionally, to create a dense fabric.
See all my blog entries about this pattern.
Materials:
· Bernat Softee Chunky, 2 balls (or ~300 yards of bulky yarn) in black, or the monstery colour of your choice
· ~150 yards of furry novelty yarn, the furrier the better (this is probably the only time I will ever say “the furrier the better”) in black, or the monstery colour of your choice
· small amount of white yarn, worsted weight or similar
· US 11 24″ circular needle
· US 6 circular needle, long enough for magic loop
· 3 medium-sized white buttons
· stitch markers
· tapestry needle
· patience and/or large supply of alcohol
Gauge:
8 sts and 12 rows = 4″
Since it’s a bag, it’s not terribly important to get gauge exactly.
Notes:
The bag isn’t lined and is kind of stretchy. The fabric is fairly dense, so it isn’t crazy stretchy, but it’s not really a bag for carrying heavy things. You can line it if you like; I have no advice on doing so because I have no clue how to line a bag.
The bag is knitted with the knit side out. Furry yarns tend to be furrier on the purl side. If you’re using a very furry yarn, as I did, the knit side will be plenty furry enough and you can follow the pattern as written. If your yarn is lacking in fur, you may want to either work the bag in reverse stockinette, or turn the bag inside out when done (remember to do the 3-needle bind off with the eventual inside on the outside… er… could that be any more confusing?).
Body:
Hold one strand of bulky yarn and one strand of furry yarn together for the entire body section.
CO 48 sts on size 11 needles.
Place marker and join, being careful not to twist (it’s hard to see a twist with all the fur, so check carefully).
K all rounds, until the bag is about 12″ long, or almost, but not quite entirely unlike tea as long as you want it.
K to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slm, k2tog, k20, k2tog, place a second marker (if you’re easily confused like I am, use a different colour marker), k2tog, k to first marker.
K one round, stopping 2 sts before first marker.
K2tog, slm, k2tog, k to 2 sts before second marker, k2tog, slm, k2tog, k to first marker.
Repeat previous two rounds two more times, taking you down to 32 sts.
K one round, stop when you get to first marker.
Turn bag inside out. The two markers will separate the stitches into two groups of 16 sts. BO all sts with a three-needle bind-off. Cut yarn and draw through last st.
Weave in ends. Dispose of any leftover furry yarn, preferably violently and permanently; you’re all done with it for this project. Put furry bag-shaped thing on head and dance around a bit. Oh, you know you want to.
Drawstring:
Using chunky yarn and size 11 needles, pick up 48 sts around the upper edge of the bag.
Join and work 2 rows of seed stitch. Work 1 eyelet row of *yo, p2tog* to end. Work 2 more rows of seed stitch and bind off in pattern. Weave in ends.
Measure out a length of white yarn about 6 times the length that you want your drawstring to be. (The circumference of the bag is about 24″, so you want the drawstring to be a bit longer than that, depending on if you want to tie it into fancy elaborate bows, etc.)
Fold length of yarn in half, and secure folded end to a nearby surface. Turn the yarn into a twisted cord. Instructions for making twisted cord can be found here. Knot ends at desired length, trim if necessary, thread through eyelet row.
Face:
Teeth are worked with size 6 needles and white yarn. If you accidentally miss a row here and there, or add extra rows, don’t worry about it. Four out of five dentists agree that monsters consistently have crooked teeth.
Full Tooth (make five)
CO 11 sts.
Rows 1-5: knit.
Row 6: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Repeat rows 1-6 until you’re down to 3 sts.
sl1-k2tog-psso, turn and k1. Cut yarn and draw through remaining stitch. Weave in ends.
Half Tooth #1 (make one)
CO 6 sts.
Rows 1-5: knit.
Row 6: ssk, k to end.
Repeat rows 1-6 until you’re down to 2 sts.
ssk, turn and k1. Cut yarn and draw through remaining stitch. Weave in ends.
Half Tooth #2 (make one)
CO 6 sts.
Rows 1-5: knit.
Row 6: k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Repeat rows 1-6 until you’re down to 2 sts.
k2tog, turn and k1. Cut yarn and draw through remaining stitch. Weave in ends.
Sew teeth to bag with white yarn. I will offer no sewing tips because I suck at sewing, and had to keep re-doing all the sewing bits. I suspect you will have a better time with it.
Thread white yarn through two of the buttons, place in appropriate eye-ish places, and draw yarn through bag fabric, knotting yarn tightly inside bag to attach buttons (or sew them on, if you’re less lazy than me).
Pocket:
Warning: This is the second most boring thing you will ever knit.
Pocket will be worked in the round using magic loop. Feel free to substitute dpns, or two circs, or whatever your preferred method of working small circumferences in the round might be.
CO 48 sts with chunky yarn on size 6 needles. Place marker and join, being careful not to twist.
Work all rows in seed stitch, until pocket is about 3.5″ long or desired depth.
Turn pocket inside out (not that it really matters, being seed stitch, but…) and separate stitches into 2 groups of 24 sts. BO all sts with a three-needle bind-off. Cut yarn and draw through last st.
Make a short length of twisted cord with white yarn. Sew or knot the last button to front of pocket. Make a loop with the twisted cord and sew it to the back of the pocket, such that it can just barely loop over the button to keep the pocket closed.
Stitch pocket to inside back of bag. Again, no sewing tips from me. Trust me, you’re better off without them.
Straps:
Warning: This is the most boring thing you will ever knit. I am not kidding. You will want a maximum distraction factor while knitting this. Turn on the TV, the radio, a podcast, read a book while you knit (I have never understood how people do that, but apparently some do), teach yourself to tap dance, just DO SOMETHING. I take no responsibility for anyone who dies of boredom while knitting these straps.
Straps are worked on size 6 needles with chunky yarn. I suggest working both at the same time (you can use the yarn ends from both the outside and inside of the ball), if only because being faced with the boredom of knitting the second strap after finally finishing the first strap may drive you to insanity.
Instructions are for one strap (duh), repeat for second strap (except, don’t, DIDN’T YOU READ WHAT I JUST SAID?!) or work second strap concurrently (YES! DO THIS).
CO 6 sts.
Work seed stitch until straps are about 16″ long, or desired length. If they look too short, they’re probably just right, because they will stretch a LOT.
BO all sts. Cut yarn and draw through remaining stitch. Weave in ends. Rejoice, for you have conquered the Cruel Straps of Never-Ending Boredom!
Sew straps to bag. This is the one place where you want to make sure your sewing doesn’t suck. I did that thing where you sew in a square, and then diagonally, and around the square again. I don’t know what it’s called, but look at a backpack strap and you’ll see it.
You’re done! Wear your back-monster with pride.
Copyright © 2007 Cyn, cyn.ca/knit
